Best of Birthstones: Enchanting Emeralds

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Once Cleopatra’s alleged favourite gemstone, the emerald continues to make a glamorous impression on everyone from royals to the red carpet’s best dressed. Beloved for their rich, exotic colour, emeralds are a bluish-green variety of the mineral beryl. When chromium, vanadium and iron are present in beryl, emeralds form, and the varying presence of these three elements results in a range of colours – chromium and vanadium lead to intense green, while iron produces a blue tint. If the stone’s hue is too yellow or blue, it is not an emerald but rather a variety of beryl, which makes highly transparent and vividly saturated green emeralds extremely valuable. In honour of May’s birthstone, we selected fifteen extraordinary emerald lots from our upcoming jewellery and watches sales around the world. –Stephanie Sporn

Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels 
17 May | Geneva

Fine Jewels
6 June | London

Fine Jewels
10 June | New York

Best of Birthstones: Enchanting Emeralds

  • Very important and unique gem set and diamond demi-parure, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960s.
    In the 1960s, Van Cleef & Arpels produced highly chromatic jewellery, and this magnificent emerald, diamond and ruby set is one of the finest examples. A play on the traditional Indian 'Thali' collar, it is perhaps one of the earliest examples of the resurgence of Indian-inspired jewels.

    Estimate 1,440,000–2,400,000CHF ($1,482,768–2,471,280). To be offered in Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 17 May in Geneva.

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  • Impressive unmounted emerald.
    This octagonal step-cut emerald of Colombian origin weighs an astounding 52.32 carats.

    Estimate CHF1,440,000–2,400,000 ($1,486,800–2,478,000). To be offered in Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 17 May in Geneva. 

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  • Emerald and diamond parure, de Grisogono.
    This striking, geometric parure features a necklace composed of two lines of baguette diamonds with step-cut emeralds and emerald pendants.

    Estimate CHF770,000–1,150,000 ($795,025–1,187,375). To be offered in Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 17 May in Geneva. 

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  • Emerald, onyx, enamel and diamond wristwatch, Cartier, 1920s.
    From the estate of Princess Helene Lutfallah-Sursock, this beautiful Cartier watch features a floral motif made from diamonds, onyx, enamel and cabochon emeralds that continues onto its back.

    Estimate CHF39,000–58,000 ($40,268–59,885). To be offered in Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 17 May in Geneva.  

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  • Ruby and emerald parure, Hemmerle.
    Rubies and emeralds in this parure create bold, asymmetric colour statements.

    Estimate CHF15,000–25,000 ($15,488–25,813). To be offered in Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 17 May in Geneva. 

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  • Platinum, emerald and diamond ring, France.
    This ring is set with a Colombian emerald measuring approximately 13.0 by 11.6 by 7.3 mm.

    Estimate $20,000–30,000. To be offered in Fine Jewels on 10 June in New York. 

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  • Emerald and diamond necklace.
    Designed as a graduated row of polished emerald beads, this necklace is accented with brilliant-cut diamond spacers. 

    Estimate £20,000–30,000 ($28,826–43,239). To be offered in Fine Jewels on 6 June in London. 

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  • Turquoise, sapphire, emerald and diamond bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1960s.


    Of floral design, this Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet is set with cabochon turquoise, emerald and sapphires within gold corded wires and diamonds.

    Estimate CHF96,000–145,000 ($99,120–149,713). To be offered in Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 17 May in Geneva.

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  • Emerald and diamond tiara, circa 1910 and Emerald and diamond necklace and a diamond brooch, circa 1910.
    Coming from the same European noble family, this tiara and coordinating necklace and brooch pair are of foliate and floral design, as well as millegrain-set with circular- and single-cut diamonds. The necklace features five detachable emerald and diamond pendants.

    Estimate CHF200,000–400,000 ($206,500–413,000) and Estimate CHF120,000–180,000 ($123,900–185,850). To be offered in Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 17 May in Geneva. 

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  • Pair of gem set and diamond earrings, Marchak, circa 1950.


    Each highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds, these earrings are set with carved emeralds surrounded by rubies and sapphires.

    Estimate £8,000–12,000 ($11,530–17,296). To be offered in Fine Jewels on 6 June in London .

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  • Emerald and diamond bracelet.
    The geometric links in this bracelet are millegrain-set with circular-cut diamonds and claw-set with cabochon emeralds.

    Estimate £12,000–16,000 ($17,296-23,061). To be offered in Fine Jewels on 6 June in London. 

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  • Patek Philippe & Cie, A fine and rare lady's miniature open-faced pocket watch set with pearls and emeralds, Made in 1903.
    Geneva’s Important Watches sale also features a radiant emerald piece. This open-faced pocket watch , seen above with a view of its front and back, features 18 karat yellow gold engraved cuvette, a white enamel dial with green Roman numerals, Louis-XV-style hands, outer minute track with gold five minute indication and a pendant set with emeralds and pearls.

    Estimate CHF7,000–10,000 ($7,168–10,240). To be offered in Important Watches on 17 May in Geneva. 

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  • Emerald and diamond parure.
    Pear-shaped emeralds surrounded by diamonds feature in this decadent parure , which also includes emeralds of Zambian and Colombian origin. 

    Estimate CHF29,000–58,000 ($29,943–59,885). To be offered in Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 17 May in Geneva. 

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  • Pair of emerald and diamond brooches, Suzanne Belperron, 1960s.
    Circular-cut emeralds and single-cut diamonds create these brooches ’ elegant leaf design.

    Estimate CHF20,000–30,000 ($20,650–30,975). To be offered in Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on 17 May in Geneva. 

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