A Kashgar silk and metal-thread rug, East Turkestan

Ulrich Schürmann, Central-Asian Rugs, 1969, No.76., p.156.

Overall measurements: 112cm across the top, 114cm across the bottom, 152cm along the left side, 154cm along the right side. Even 2-3omm dense pile overall. Subtle differentiation in some areas of the metal-thread field, with areas with a redder tone - due to core threads, for example in the top left quadrant between the design of the four facing green leaves, visible in the photograph - all stable and original, and see small horizontal areas in the lower edge. There is similar subtle differentiation in the silvery ground of the border, with areas of weft light core threads visible, again stable. See for example an 8cm horizontal line in the lower right quadrant, visible as the white line near the four leaves in the design. The pile of the flower with horizontal orientation in the lower right quadrant does have slightly different colouration in the petals and centre, less strident and bright than appears in the catalogue photograph and less bvious in reality. No evidence of recent repair or repiling - but surface discolouration might be more recent. Some very minor oxidation and wear in the lower right corner of the vertical inner guard. There are visible metal edges at the side, then overcast with silk and metal edges between the pile and the flatweave at the ends, commensurate with technique. With original flatweave ends, trimmed and lacking any fringing. Re-overcast side cords, especially on the left side. The reverse with three small sections of Velcro intermittently attached across the top edge. Flexible handle. Very attractive design and colouring. Overall in outstanding condition for age and type.
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Kashgar in the Xinjiang province of East Turkestan was an important trading post on the silk route and a centre of manufacture of carpets for centuries, with influence in the designs used from Persia, China and India respectively. In the 18^th century the rulers of Kashgar were related to the Mughals of India. The silk and metal brocade rugs have Mughal influence from the Mughal floral lattice carpets of the 17^th century, with a formal lattice having been replaced by a trellis of floral vinery. See for example of a Mughal silk rug, 17^th century (221 by 147cm) on a red ground, Sotheby’s, London, 16 April 1987, lot 94, from a rare group of silk rugs (related to the contemporary wool pieces). For an interesting comparable fragment with brocading, 17^th/18^th century, with foliate and leaf composition and similar border type (Private collection), see Spuhler, Friedrich, The Thyssen –Bornemisza Collection, Carpets and Textiles, London, 1998, Carpets, East Turkestan silk carpets [42-52], pp.184-205, p.191, (black and white) fig.1.

For examples of Kashgar silk carpets with golden yellow grounds, from 17^th through to 19^th century, see Schürmann, Ulrich, Central-Asian Rugs, 1969, Nos. 68- 69 & 72, pp.148-149 and 152, for and No. 76, p.156, for the present rug.

There is a group of Kashgar silk rugs of the 18^th century which belong to a particularly elegant group of East Turkestan weaving, and show comparable elements. See Sotheby’s, New York, 5 December 1987, lot 121, for an earlier example of a`Silk provincial Mughal carpet fragment’, 18^th century, with fuchsia/rose ground, and similar grouping of flowers and leaves, and lot 120 for later fragment of a silk Kashgar rug, East Turkestan, in the same design tradition. For other lattice and blossom, 18^th century examples, see Christie’s, London, The Bernheimer Collection of Carpets, 14 February, lots 95, 96 and 183, for fragments of silk Kashgar carpets, with fuchsia/rose grounds.

Related Literature:

For discussion of the Turkestan rugs and their influences, and a comparable example, see Bidder, Hans, Carpets from Eastern Turkestan, Washington International Associates, 1979, Chp.III, The Khotan Carpets, pp.43-85, D.Allover pattern and ornamentation from the Mohammaden period of Khotan, 1., ’Herat’ and floral style of ‘endless rapport’, pp.74-77, plates XVII, 2, Kashgar carpet fragment, with Herat flower style, first half 18^th century (200 by 345cm);
Dimand, Maurice S. and Mailey, J., Oriental Rugs in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, with a catalogue of Rugs of China and Chinese Turkestan, New York, 1973, fig. 304;
Franses, Michael, Editor, Fengruan Rutan, Silk Covers from Western China, First Under Heaven, The Arts of Asia, Hali Publications Ltd, London, 1997, Chp. 6, pp.84-107;
Konig, Hans, Beziehungen Zwischen den Teppichen Ostturkestans und Moghulindiens, “Festschrift fur Peter Wilhelm Meister, zum 65. Geburstag Hamburg, 1975, pp. 32-40, fig. 5.