Sapphire and Diamond Clip-Brooch, Verdura

Featuring an oval-shaped sapphire weighing 26.77 carats set between wings accented with round diamonds and calibré-cut sapphires, signed Verdura, with workshop mark. With signed box.

In very good condition, no apparent wear. The brooch is signed Verdura and stamped with a workshop mark, the metal tests for platinum with a white gold clip back. The sapphire weighs approximately 26.77 carats, is grayish blue in hue with a slight greenish modifier, moderately light in tone, with eye visible inclusions, and scattered scratches to the table and crown. The sapphire is more of a "steely" blue with a minor green modifier than depicted in the print catalogue. The numerous round diamonds weighing approximately 5.00 carats, F-G color, VS clarity. The brooch weighs approximately 40 dwts. and measures approximately 2¼ x 2 inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

After working as a jewelry designer for Coco Chanel and Paul Flato, Fulco di Verdura opened his own jewelry salon in New York in 1939. His designs were remarkable for their defiance of the trends of the time. Instead of focusing on linear forms like strap bracelets and sautoirs, Fulco played around with designs that borrowed from nature and mythology. His “winged” jewels were an amalgamation of these themes, inspired by both the wings of Mercury, the messenger God, and the strength and grace of eagle wings.

He played around with this motif while at Chanel, creating a suite of gold wing earclips and brooches for Coco Chanel’s 1934 spring collection. He then refined the design to create a platinum and diamond necklace arranged as a series of eagle wings for his inaugural eponymous collection in 1939. The winged motif was one that Verdura returned to again and again, creating a series of brooches centering precious or semiprecious stones that were popular for their whimsy and wearability. The design reached the apex of popularity when the actress Jean Fontaine wore a pink topaz, gold and diamond version in Alfred Hitchcock’s film Suspicion. While Verdura was not the first jeweler to utilize the wing motif, he created winged jewels that are as modern today as they were in the 1930s. This particular winged brooch, centering a large oval sapphire and set with round diamonds and calibré-cut sapphires is an elevated version of one of Verdura’s most recognizable designs.