Superb and Rare Art Deco Gem Set and Diamond Mystery Clock, ‘Le Ciel’, Cartier, 1928

The circular celestial dial with mother-of-pearl and enamel roman numeral and star hour markers, embellished with rose-cut diamond comet hands and collet-set diamonds, to the onyx and coral edge, resting on two carved jade carps accented by moonstones, corals and enamel, atop the rock crystal and obsidian fountain, signed Cartier Paris Londres New York, numbered, with French assay mark, width and height approximately 140 x 220mm, accompanied by a key.

“Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century”, Denver, Denver Art Museum, 16 November 2014 - 15 March 2015.

“Inventing the Modern World: Decorative Arts at the World's Fairs, 1851-1939”, Kansas City, The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, 14 April - 19 August 2012; Pittsburgh, Carnegie Museum of Art, 13 October 2012 - 24 February 2013; Charlotte, Mint Museum of Art, 22 September 2013 - 19 January 2014.

“Cartier and America, Legion of Honor”, San Francisco, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, 19 December 2009 - 9 May 2010.

Margaret Young-Sánchez et alii, Cartier in the 20th Century, New York, 2014, pg. 120 for an illustration of this clock, accompanying the following exhibition “Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century”, Denver, Denver Art Museum, 16 November 2014 - 15 March 2015.

Jason T. Busch and Catherine L. Futter, Inventing the Modern World: Decorative Arts at the World’s Fairs, 1851-1939, New York, 2012, pg. 140 for an illustration of this clock, accompanying the following exhibition “Inventing the Modern World: Decorative Arts at the World's Fairs, 1851-1939”, Kansas City, The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, 14 April - 19 August 2012; Pittsburgh, Carnegie Museum of Art, 13 October 2012 - 24 February 2013; Charlotte, Mint Museum of Art, 22 September 2013 - 19 January 2014.

Martin Chapman, Cartier and America, San Fransisco, 2009, pg. 156, 163 and 167 for the illustrations of this clock, accompanying the following exhibition “Cartier and America, Legion of Honor”, San Francisco, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, 19 December 2009 - 9 May 2010.

Manual winding movement in running condition at time of cataloguing, please note that Sotheby's does not guarantee future working condition of watches. Please note that the movement has not been tested for the accuracy of its time keeping and therefore a service should be carried out in the near future at the buyer's expense. Signed Cartier Paris Londres New York at the bottom, numbered 0763 1387 3266, with partial French assay mark. Rock crystal in good condition, with typical inclusions, some surface reaching, commonly seen in natural gemstone. Jade in good overall condition, with typical inclusions and fissures under strong illumination, generally not noticeable under normal lighting. Blue Glass in good condition, with slight fissure and abrasion on the side and small chip and pit on the back. Mother-of-pearl in very good condition, with a few scratches. Onyx overall in good condition with minor scratches. Coral in overall good condition with minor fractures and scratches. Moonstones are colourless with blue adularescence and eye clean. Rose-cut diamonds are estimated to weigh approximately 0.30 carat in total, as gauged in the mounting. Black obsidian is in very good condition. Enamel overall in good condition, some tiny chips. Signs of normal wear to the metal base consistent with use. Overall in very good condition. Accompanied by a key.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that certain permits may be required for export. If you are interested in this lot, please contact the Jewellery Department before bidding.

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Magical Messenger of Mystery -'Le Ciel'

Born in an era when artisans were unfettered by the forces of commercialism and freely lavished their imaginations upon their creations, the Cartier Mystery Clock captivated observers and commentators alike, with their enchanted floating hands that mystifyingly kept time without any discernible mechanisms to turn them.

The making of each clock demanded the best talents of various specialists, not limited to the clockmaking world. Artists, enamelers, orfèvre-boîtiers, watchmakers, goldsmiths, engravers and polishers would often take up to a year of intense, highly skilled labour to produce each flawless masterpiece. Famed collectors of the Mystery Clock included American financier J. P. Morgan, the Queen of Spain (Victoria Eugenie of Battenberg), Queen Mary of England (consort of King George V) and the Maharaja of Nawanagar.

Created in 1928, 'Le Ciel' was likely inspired by the Pons-Winnecke comet's appearance in June 1927. An extraordinary example, this special collection produced by Cartier between 1922 and 1931 incorporated re-mounted antique Chinese jade carvings from 18^th and 19^th century. Only thirteen clocks from the collection are still known to exist: 'Le Ciel' being one of them.

Embracing the wondrous orbit of the planets, 'Le Ciel' is saturated with symbolism. The celestial dial, embellished with bejeweled shooting stars and planets, depict the majesty of the midnight sky – as the diamond-set comet hands celebrate the mystical planetary cycle. The dial is then supported by a pair of two antique jade carps resting on an everlasting fountain. The elements of the sky and water are seamlessly perfected in harmony represented by the adornments of the fish, through the adulerescence of the moonstone and the beauty of carved coral.

In Chinese culture, carps have symbolised strength and power as well as abundance and profitability. Exemplifying an infinite source of freedom and vitality, the combination of fish and water has enraptured Chinese art since antiquity. Robust with exuberance and vigor, the prosperous and auspicious fish celebrates the essence of its natural element: water. Liu An, the mystical Prince of Huai-nan, once expressed the nature of water as such: "In length it is without limit, in distance it has no shores; in its flows and ebbs, its increase and decrease, it is measureless... for it flows and rushes with echoing reverberations throughout the vast expanse of Earth and Heaven." A sacred invitation to the endlessness of time, the fountain of aqua pura represents a spiritual opening, a metaphor to the ambrosia of eternity.

Encapsulating the clairvoyance of immortality whilst juxtaposed to faithfully serving as the messenger of time, 'Le Ciel' is a true rarity of its making. Representing the epitome of Art Deco's most creative period and the quintessence of Cartier's clockmaking, Sotheby's is proud to present this rare and exceptional bejewelled timepiece at our auction.

"Marvels of the clockmaker's art, unreal and seemingly woven from moon beans, they veil the mysteries of time."

La Gazette du Bon Ton, 1925