Moonstone and sapphire demi-parure, Louis Comfort Tiffany, circa 1910-20

Comprising; a pendant necklace and a pair of earrings; the oval pendant set with cabochon moonstones and circular-cut sapphires, within a scrolled wirework surround, to a similar neckchain, length approximately 460mm, signed Tiffany & Co.; the earrings of matching design, post and butterfly fittings.

Cf.: C.Phillips, Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837-1987, London, 2006, pg. 246, for a necklace of similar design.

Reverse of central moonstone pendant signed Tiffany & Co. Earrings unsigned. Moonstones very pale yellow with white to blue adularescence, transparent, with very minor typical inclusions visible under magnification. Largest moonstone measuring approximately 15.5 x 11.2 x 7.8mm, calculated to weigh approximately 9.69 carats. Sapphires light blue, transparent, also with typical very minor inclusions visible under magnification, some surface-reaching. Stones with areas of scratches and minor wear to surfaces and facet edges. Links well-articulated, clasp secure, post fittings secure. Scratches to metal surfaces consistent with wear. Gross weight approximately 38.7 grams. In good condition. Accompanied by case from Jay's, Brighton.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones.
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Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848–1933) was the first Design Director at his family company, Tiffany & Co, founded by his father Charles Lewis Tiffany. He is the American artist most associated with the Art Nouveau and Aesthetic movements and affiliated with a prestigious collaborative of designers known as the Associated Artists, which included Lockwood de Forest, Candace Wheeler, and Samuel Colman. The Tiffany oeuvre was to include stained glass windows, lamps, glass mosaics, blown glass, ceramics, jewellery, enamels, and metalwork.

Louis' exposure to the highly skilled and experienced craftsmen at Tiffany & Co, alongside with his artistic side and captivation for nature, marked the beginning of a series of jewels influenced by the European Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts movements focusing on beauty rather than intrinsic value favouring stones such as opals, moonstones and turquoise.

The Yogo Gulch sapphires from Montana were frequently used after its introduction in the late 19^th century. Numerous variations of moonstone and Yogo Gulch sapphires set in platinum were produced in Tiffany’s designs.

This necklace signed Tiffany & Co, is believe to be produced post-1907, as Louis’s early pieces does not bear a signature. In 1907 Louis’s moved his ‘Tiffany Art Jewellery’ operation in its entirety to his late father’s firm Tiffany & Co, where all markings on pieces were consistent. It is likely that Louis collaborated with his designer Meta Overbeck on this necklace, as the icy colour combinations being one of her favourites.