An Ottoman silk satin and metal-thread brocade panel (kemha), Turkey, circa 1600

brocaded with detailed carnation motifs in silver metal thread wrapped yellow silk with ivory stems and chartreuse leaves all outlined in scarlet and on a chartreuse ground, mounted onto stretcher and set within detachable box frame

Colour of green is more muted and subtle in reality and the outline is in reality a dark orange red and not the scarlet hue which appears in the printed catalogue image. On the reverse: an additional approx. 21cm. high by 63cm. wide section at the top and the section turned over at the bottom approx. 14cm. high by 63cm. wide. Both having been cut at edges and nailed into place. Original side salvages indicate that it is a full loom width. Sections on the reverse are discoloured and with areas of distress, especially to the palmettes and edges. Lower panel on reverse has brighter colours generally (especially the orange/red). Overall balanced and brightly coloured with minor fading in top section, some distress areas and loose ivory coloured brocading to the stem-supports as visible in the photograph as green-ground is visible, this does not detract from the overall striking balance appearance. The pale saffron-yellow detailing to palmettes has some loose horizontal threads, especially to palmettes within top half and central horizontal row, as visible in photograph. There are some small holes through the textile centre-left-hand side visible as four small black areas in the photograph. There is a curved surface dark stain top-left of central palmette second row up from bottom. There is some differentiation within the weave of the green ground visible as paler striations, which gives a subtle sense of movement to overall design, frame has been glazed, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

The four flowers associated with the Ottoman court were: the tulip, hyacinth, rose and the carnation, all widely used in Ottoman textile design, and notably the carnation in the present example. This unusual silk panel features a rare chartreuse green ground and the carnations are boldly represented with a long stem, including roots and stylised leaves. It offers a beautifully balanced composition in a vibrant and dynamic palette.

There is an interesting comparable kemha panel, with a repeat pattern of the simple large gold carnations and stems, but without roots and leaves, within an ogival lattice, first half seventeenth century, in the Topkapi Palace Museum (Inv.no. 13/2507), see (Atasoy 2001, p.287, fig.254).

It is considered to be an unusually stylised design in relation to other kemha designs of the seventeenth century, which were usually more complex, and it is thought that this design is inspired by the contemporary carnation velvets from Bursa. For example a panel with similarly pared down design, circa 1600 (163 by 128cm), Mevlana Museum Konya (Inv. no. 600).

See previous lot in this sale for a large çatma panel with exuberant repeat carnation design.