Gold, Platinum, Citrine, Sapphire, Diamond and Ruby Clip-Brooch

The polished gold hand with five drop-shaped cabochon ruby fingernails holding an emerald-cut citrine weighing approximately 100.00 carats, the lace cuff set with round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately .50 carat, accented by 15 calibré-cut sapphires; circa 1940.

In good condition with some scratching and wear to the gold, mainly on the reverse and commensurate with wear. The citrine is a medium-deep slightly brownish yellowish orange, eye-clean with some very minor abrading to the facet junctions visible only under magnification. The sapphires are a medium-light violetish blue and well matched for color, eye-clean to slightly included. The ruby fingernails are a medium to medium-deep slightly purplish red and slightly included, with a small chip to the tip of the thumb. The diamonds are approximately H-I color, VS-SI clarity. Well made and realistically rendered. Bears a nice heft, dimensions approximately 4 x 2 1/4 inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.Certificates of Authenticity: Various manufacturers may not issue certificates of authenticity upon request. Sotheby's is not under an obligation to furnish the purchaser with a certificate of authenticity from the manufacturer at any time. Unless the requirements for a rescission of the sale under the Terms of Guarantee are satisfied, the failure of a manufacturer to issue a certificate will not constitute grounds to rescind the sale. Gemological Certificates and Reports: References in the catalogue descriptions to certificates or reports issued by gemological laboratories are provided only for the information of bidders, and Sotheby's does not guarantee and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy, terms or information contained in such certificates or reports. Please also note that laboratories may differ in their assessment of a gemstone (including its origin and presence, type and extent of treatments) and their certificates or reports may contain different results.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

This brooch is reminiscent of the designs created during the partnership between Paul Flato and Fulco di Verdura. Often taking the form of amusing designs Flato called “whimsies,” both men shared a deep appreciation for jewels whose designs were bold and unconventional. Centering a citrine weighing approximately 100.00 carats, this design epitomizes the “big is beautiful” jewelry mentality of the late 1930s. In addition, the attention to detail calls to mind similar jewels by Flato which feature ruby-manicured fingernails and delicately adorned cuffs.

For additional information, please see Paul Flato: Jeweler to the Stars by Elizabeth Irvine Bray, pages 32 and 61-71. Also see Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler by Patricia Corbett, pages 82-109.