A fine and impressive silk lampas robe, Central Asia, Sogdiana, 7th/8th century

of characteristic form with long sleeves and open front, large collar, woven with fine red, green, blue and cream silk threads, decorated with large medallions containing confronting winged horses and confronting deer, between floral medallions, each sleeve-end with a large version of the medallions, the winged horses on one side and deer on the other

In fairly good condition, the gold silk highlights bright, areas of wear and some tears (particularly to reverse) with associated consolidation, the collar re-lined and replaced on one side, sections re-sown together, interior with lining and consolidation, as viewed.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

This magnificent coat is a rare survivor of Sogdian silk production, evoking the wealth and luxury of the Silk Road. Characterised by a rich and broad cross-cultural mix, germinated at the crossroads of China, Central Asia and Persia, this robe plays an important part in our understanding of a nomadic civilisation in which wealth had to be transportable, leading to a fascinating fusion of artistic influences.

Sogdian silk manufacture was highly influenced by trade with China, whilst the decorative motifs were often derived from Sasanian models from Persia. For example, a woven inscription on a Chinese T’ang silk brocade from the Sinkiang Province, now in the Tokyo National Museum explicitly describes its design as: ‘flowering tree and facing deer’ (Hayashi 1975, pp.120-21, no.131), indicating its position in a well-known decorative repertoire. In fact, this theme can be traced back to a Sassanian origin, in which motifs such as the tree of life and mythological creatures held a symbolic spiritual meaning. The confronted horned deer and winged horses which populate this robe find widespread parallels on Sassanian silverware, notably used as handles, possibly explaining the upright position of the present animals. A stone relief from Persepolis dated to the fifth/six century BC, shows a Phoenician carrying an amphora with two winged horse-handles which he intends to present as an offering to King Darius (Beurdeley 1985, p.20, no.8). The medallion pattern also first makes its appearance on stone, notably on the robe of Khusraw (Chosroes) II ‘Parvis’ (r.590-628) on the rock-relief at Taq-i Bustan in Western Iran (Rogers 2007, p.55).

For a full discussion of luxury-silk weaving under the Sogdians in Central Asia, see J. Watt and A. Wardwell, When Silk was Gold: Central Asian and Chinese Textiles, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 1997, pp.21-37.

This lot is accompanied by a Radiocarbon test confirming the date of manufacture between 664 and 769 AD.