Lot 121
  • 121

Patek Philippe

Estimate
200,000 - 400,000 USD
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Description

  • RETAILED BY GÜBELIN: A HIGHLY IMPORTANT AND PROBABLY UNIQUE YELLOW GOLD OPEN-FACED PERPETUAL CALENDAR SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH MINUTE REPEATING WATCH WITH MOON PHASES AND BLACK DIALREF 658 MVT 860075 CASE 614429 MADE IN 1937
  • yellow gold
  • diameter 50 mm
• 17''' ligne nickel lever movement, bi-metallic balance, 39 jewels, two hammers repeating on two gongs • glossy black dial with applied gilt Arabic numerals, gold feuille hands, four sunken subsidiary dials indicating day, 30-minute register combined with leap year and month indication, date, constant seconds and ages of the moon combined with fan-form aperture for moon-phases, outer scale calibrated for 60 units with fifths of a second divisions • concave stepped bezels, stepped bow, calendar correctors and minute repeating slide to the band, engraved monogram to the exterior of the case back and inscription to the interior of the snap case back • case, dial and movement signed E. Gübelin, case and movement with Patek Philippe serial numbers

Condition

Movement in need of service, to be covered at Sotheby's expense, and will take approximately 6-8 weeks. Case in very good, crisp, unpolished condition. Dial is in excellent original condition. The inside of the case back is marked 'Donald S. Gilmore from Genevieve U. Gilmore, 1938', and the monogram to the outside of the case back is GDS.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. All dimensions in catalogue descriptions are approximate. Condition reports may not specify mechanical replacements or imperfections to the movement, case, dial, pendulum, separate base(s) or dome. Watches in water-resistant cases have been opened to examine movements but no warranties are made that the watches are currently water-resistant. Please note that we do not guarantee the authenticity of any individual component parts, such as wheels, hands, crowns, crystals, screws, bracelets and leather bands, since subsequent repairs and restoration work may have resulted in the replacement of original parts. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue. In particular, please note it is the purchaser's responsibility to comply with any applicable import and export matters, particularly in relation to lots incorporating materials from endangered species.NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

**Please be advised that bands made of materials derived from endangered or otherwise protected species (i.e. alligator and crocodile) are not sold with the watches and are for display purposes only. We reserve the right to remove these bands prior to shipping.

Important Notice regarding importation into the United States of Rolex watches
Sotheby's cannot arrange for the delivery of Rolex watches to the United States because U.S. laws restricts the import of Rolex watches. The buyer or a designated agent may collect the property in the country of sale."

Catalogue Note

With a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming sale with black dial and monogram on 28 July 1937.

With its triple complication, the present lot represents the apex of Patek Philippe's technical creations. Its black dial and modern, angular lines lend aesthetic appeal beyond traditional collectors of pocket watches to connoisseurs of mid-century complicated wristwatches as well. Indeed, were a Patek Philippe wristwatch to surface featuring perpetual calendar, split second chronograph, minute repeater and a black dial confirmed on the Extract from the Archives, as in the present lot, it would fetch seven figures handily. Here, the glint of the gilt printing on the black dial combined with the sharp edges of the case command the pulse-quickening desire so familiar to relentless seekers of Patek Philippe trophy watches. 

This similarity to the typical wristwatch format and lines is achieved through the 17''' calibre movement with some modifications of placement intended to make the watch as flat as possible for carrying. The case is marked with a key indicating production by Emile Vichet. Furthermore, the subsidiary dials are enlarged, enhancing the overall legibility of each indication. One reason black dials are so rare for complicated watches is that each element of the display must first be engraved on the dial plate before being inlaid with gold. 

The present lot belongs to Ref. 658, which was launched in 1937 and in production until the late 1950s. It is estimated that only 15 examples of Ref. 658 were produced, of which only seven have appeared on the market. Each of these have featured silvered dials, and furthermore vary in the placement, display, and size of the subsidiary dials. 

Based on an exhaustive study of similar watches, it can be surmised that the present lot is the first known Ref. 658 to have been produced, a unique piece and furthermore featured in multiple 1930s Patek Philippe advertisements. At least three historical marketing documents feature an identical piece with a black dial and the signature of the prestigious retailer Gübelin. It is no surprise that Patek Philippe chose to partner with Gübelin for a watch of such importance. The hugely significant and historical house traces its roots to 1854 in Lucerne, and established a presence in the US in 1922, at 576 5th Avenue. As the Extract confirms that the watch was made in the launch year of 1937, we can further note that this was likely the first piece from the series and selected for advertising due to its stunning look, decades ahead of its time. 

The present lot is being offered for the first time at a public auction.