14 Karat Tri-Color Gold and Lapis Lazuli Bracelet, Cartier

The circular gold links centering a barrel-form clasp composed of a lapis lazuli cylinder measuring approximately 28.8 by 23.3 by 18.1 mm, length 8 inches, signed Cartier; circa 1940.

In good condition overall with some evidence of scratching and patina to the gold links, not apparent when worn. The lapis lazuli is a deep cobalt blue with significant color mottling and flecking of pyrite. The bracelet operates by pushing inward on the gold circular link at one end and twisting 90 degrees. Signed Cartier on the side of the first pink gold link adjacent to the clasp. Bears a nice heft, with gross weight approximately 82 dwts. Although the bracelet is long in terms of its length, it fits quite snugly on a medium or medium-large wrist. Bracelets of similar design are illustrated in The Cartier Collection: Jewelry, by François Chaille, page 361.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Bracelets of similar design are illustrated in The Cartier Collection: Jewelry, by François Chaille, page 361.

The simple mention of Marlene Dietrich, legendary actress, singer and cabaret star, evokes a bygone era of glamour and sophistication. Universally remembered as a trendsetter and fashion icon, Dietrich famously dressed not for her public image, but for herself, alternating between sequined gowns with glittering jewels and crisply cut tuxedos with top hats.  

Dietrich was known to have worn jewels from her personal collection in her most acclaimed films.  Her signature piece of jewelry, a stylized diamond brooch designed as a rose in full bloom, was given to her in the early 1930s by director Josef von Sternberg and showcased in The Blue Angel and Shanghai Express. One of her most dramatic jewels, a spectacularly three-dimensional ruby and diamond cuff made by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1930s, was worn in Stage Fright.  Both the “Marlene Rose” and the Van Cleef ruby bracelet were sold at Sotheby’s, New York in 2010 and 1992, respectively.

The gold and lapis lazuli Cartier bracelet offered here was a gift from her longtime friend Erich Maria Remarque, author of All Quiet on the Western Front.  Marlene first met Remarque in Venice in the late 1930s and they maintained a close relationship as she helped him to emigrate to the United States in 1939.  According to Dietrich’s family, Remarque selected this design because she loved lapis and the generous gold links complemented her affinity for masculine styles.