Aquamarine, natural pearl and diamond brooches, Georges Fouquet, 1908, later tiara fitting

Designed as five graduated floral motifs, each set with a cushion shaped aquamarine within a petalled border of circular-cut and rose diamonds and natural pearl accents, the pearls measuring from approximately 5.00 to 8.50mm, on a later tiara frame, five detachable brooch pins and a pair of earring fittings and two later fitted cases.

Cf: Marie-Noël de Gary, ed. A. Kenneth Snowman, 'Fouquet', The Master Jewelers, London, 1990, pgs. 166 and 171, for an illustration and discussion on the original tiara by Fouquet.

Cf: Charlotte Gere and Geoffrey C. Munn, Artists' Jewellery: Pre-Raphaelite to Arts and Crafts, London, 1989, pg. 219, colour plate 99 for an illustration of this tiara, with the later fitting.

Cf: ed. Marie-Noël de Gary, Les Fouquet: Bijoutiers & Joailliers à Paris 1860-1960, Paris, 1989, pg. 90 for an illustration of the original tiara.

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 77058, stating that twenty-two pearls were found to be natural, saltwater, and eight were found to be natural blister pearls. The two medium jewels signed G. Fouquet. The five elements may be detached from the tiara frame and be worn as five brooches or three brooches and two earrings, screwdriver is present. Pearls of silvery white to light cream body colour, partly with green and rosé overtones. Aquamarines measure between approximately 20.15 x 14.10 x 9.90 and 28.20 x 21.80 x 15.85 mm and are estimated to weigh between approximately 13.85 and 56.80 carats, with a total of approximately 146.80 carats, the two smallest aquamarines are of lighter blue colour, the three larger aquamarines of greenish blue colour, minor inclusions, top facets with a few nicks and abrasions, pavilion facets with some small nicks and abrasions. Diamonds bright and lively. Signs of normal wear to the metal, scratches consistent with use. In good condition. Total gross weight approximately 101 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
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The tiara with detachable brooches was originally designed by Georges Fouquet in 1908. An illustration of the original design is found in Marie-Noël de Gary's entry on Fouquet, in the book The Master Jewelers. She writes: "Georges particularly admired large stones and anything out of the ordinary... [he] had such a strong predilection for this blue stone that dealers dubbed him 'the father of the aquamarine...".