Fine natural pearl and diamond tiara, second half of the 19th century

Composed of a line of star motifs set with rose diamonds, surmounted with eleven slightly baroque drop shaped natural pearls measuring from approximately 10.30 x 12.50 x 13.75mm to 13.65 x 14.40 x 21.00mm, each natural pearl supported by a rose diamond mount and by a cushion-shaped diamond. 

Mary Ray (1835-1901) married on 2 July 1856 Arthur Dubois, Viscount de Courval (1826-1873), thence by descent to the present owner. 

The Viscountess de Courval was a lady of exquisite taste. She was born into an important and wealthy family in New York. Brought up in France where her parents had settled, Mary Ray was a perfect match for a French aristocrat. In 1856, she married the Viscount de Courval in New York. A lover of the arts, the Viscountess looked for fine and delicate objects and works of art in Paris auctions to furnish and embellish her hôtel particulier at 6 rue Paul Baudry, near the Champs Elysées. 

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 80598, stating that the eleven slightly baroque to drop shaped pearls measuring from approximately 10.30 x 12.50 x 13.75mm to 13.65 x 14.40 x 21.00mm, were found to be natural, saltwater, together with an appendix letter expressing the remarkable size and the quality of the pearls. Pearls of white to light cream and slightly brown body colour, partly with rosé and green overtones, one with areas of colour graduation to silverish-grey, with good skin and lustre, blemishes and growth marks, one pearl exhibiting a plugged drill hole; for further details on the pearls, please refer to the SSEF report. Diamonds estimated to weigh a total of approximately 7.00 - 9.00 carats, on average J to yellowish or brownish tint, SI-I clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount. Signs of normal wear to the metal consistent with age and normal use. In good condition. Gross weight approximately 76 grams.
"In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Please note that colour, clarity and weight of gemstones are statements of opinion only and not statements of fact by Sotheby's. We do not guarantee, and are not responsible for any certificate from a gemological laboratory that may accompany the property. We do not guarantee that watches are in working order. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective, qualified opinion. Prospective buyers should also refer to refer to any Important Notices regarding this sale, which are printed in the Sale Catalogue, in particular to the Notice regarding the treatment and condition of gemstones and to the Notice regarding import of Burmese jadeite and rubies into the US.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF BUSINESS PRINTED IN THE SALE CATALOGUE."

'The described eleven pearls of remarkable size are set in this tiara together with a fine selection of diamonds in a beautiful historic design. The pearls have been carefully selected and show a matching slightly baroque drop to drop shape and a fine pearl lustre... Assembling a matching selection of natural pearls of this size and quality is very rare and exceptional'. 

Excerpt from the SSEF appendix letter

This exquisite, rare and impressive natural pearl and diamond tiara is a superb combination of the most flattering and imposing form of jewellery with the use of this exceptional, fascinating and mysterious material, natural pearl. In the  appendix letter accompanying the certificate for this lot, the SSEF states:  'The described eleven pearls of remarkable size are set in this tiara together with a fine selection of diamonds in a beautiful historic design. The pearls have been carefully selected and show a matching slightly baroque drop to drop shape and a fine pearl lustre'. 

The word 'pearl' has long been a metaphor for something rare, fine and valuable. For centuries, royalty throughout the world has coveted these precious gems as a symbol of power, purity and beauty, even endowing them with medical properties when consumed. Pliny, in his Natural History, recounts the tale of Cleopatra drinking one of the largest pearls in the world, dissolved in vinegar, after a bet with Marc Antony. Pearl was the most sought after gem for royalty and nobility, and this tiara is the perfect combination between this exquisite gem and the nobility of the tiara. 

The purpose of tiaras has constantly been threefold: to adorn, to convey status and to signify wealth. From the 19th century, tiaras were often given by a groom to the bride, marking not only the culmination of love, but a promise of high status and the comfort that would ensue. The Bonapartist era marked the beginning of the use of tiaras as they are worn today. Tiaras were worn at coronation, marriage and sometimes baptism. Just before the outbreak of World War I, they were worn to the new forms of entertaining of that time, particularly charity balls, private parties and, as always, to the opera. They were regarded as a glamorous accessory to evening dress. 

Because of their social significance, tiaras were often set with the most beautiful and precious family stones. In the tiara offered here, the design emphasises the quality and the importance of the drop shaped natural pearls and the function of the delicate diamond mount is merely that of enhancing their beauty.

The ongoing fascination with tiaras was confirmed by the Victoria & Albert Museum exhibition 'Tiara' which took place in 2002. Over two thousand tiaras were assembled for the show, with examples from British and European Royal families, as well as more contemporary creations. Over a hundred and eighty thousand people visited the exhibition to pay tribute to one of the most enduring and scintillating of jewellery forms. 

Besides the quality of the pearls and the delicate design of the jewel, the provenance adds interest to this fine and delicate piece. Indeed the tiara has been kept in the same family for well over a century. A painting by Gustave Jacquet (1846-1909) dated 1883, portrays Mary Ray, Viscountess de Courval, wearing the tiara together with a Worth dress inspired by the 18th century 'robe à crinoline' and by the high lace collar of the 16th century, worn by Marie de Médicis, Queen of France. This dress was created for a ball hosted by Madame de Courval on 24 May 1883. In the portrait, the Viscountess wears it together with several necklaces, a devant-de-corsage, hair ornaments, bracelets and rings. This painting is a true testimony of fin de siècle opulence when, after the fall of the Second Empire and under a still young Third Republic, France was divided between monarchists and republicans, but the elites met at a succession of sumptuous receptions. The tiara passed on to the only child of the Viscount and Viscountess de Courval, Madeleine, who married François de Noailles, Prince de Poix, on 24 June 1889; thence by descent.