Lot 407
  • 407

Platinum, Gold, Diamond, Faience and Colored Stone 'Pylon' Brooch, Cartier, London

Estimate
50,000 - 70,000 USD
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Description

  • platinum, gold, faience, colored stone, diamond
Designed as the entryway to an Egyptian temple, the glazed faience plaque framed with round, old European and single-cut diamonds, accented by channel-set and calibré-cut rubies, sapphires, citrines, emeralds, and amethysts, further set with cabochon rubies and onyx segments, the faience plaque backed with gold, with enamel accents, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier, Londres, faintly numbered S.L7358; circa 1923.

Literature

For a complete description and discussion of this piece see Cartier: 1900-1939 by Judy Rudoe, pages 136-137.

An illustration of Lady Abdy wearing the piece suspended from a necklace is featured in American Vogue, December 8, 1928, page 192.

Featured in a Cartier London illustration of 'The 'Tutankhamen' Influence in Modern Jewellery,' Illustrated London News, January 26, 1924.

Condition

The mounting in fair condition, with warping to the undercarriage and surface wear commensurate with age. The faience fragment shows one significant fracture running vertically that is visible in the 1924 advertisement from the Illustrated London News. While there are additional hairline fractures to the faience, it is stable in the mounting. The diamonds are approximately H-K color, VS-SI clarity. The colored stones are decorative in quality, with some chipping to the citrines visible under magnification. There is some visible enamel loss to the lower registers. One of the onyx segments is heavily chipped. Metal appears slightly bent when viewed in profile, but it is not apparent when worn. The S.L in the numbering stands for Sold in London. Dimensions approximately 2 3/8 by 2 1/8 inches.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.