- 150
18 Karat Gold and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Brooch, Joë Descomps, Leon Gariod
Estimate
12,000 - 18,000 USD
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Description
- gold, enamel
Designed as a bathing female figure highlighted with blue and green plique-à-jour enamel, gross weight approximately 11 dwts, with French assay mark and maker's mark for Leon Gariod, numbered 3500; circa 1900.
Literature
Illustrated in The Paris Salons: 1895-1914. Jewellery. Volume I. The Designers A-K by Alistair Duncan, page 187. This source also notes that the brooch was exhibited in the Exposition des Beaux-Arts in 1900.
Illustrated in Masterpieces of French Jewelry by Judith Price, page 21.
Condition
In good condition, with some very gentle surface wear. No visible loss to the enamel, which shows a lovely translucency. The gold wire work is well done, with fine detailing and a strong sense of three dimensionality. Maker's and assay marks on the pin stem, additional assay mark on the pin catch.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.
Catalogue Note
Emanuel-Jules Joë Descomps (1872-1948) was a leading Parisian jeweler, sculptor and designer who developed a strong connection to the Art Nouveau style. Although little is known about him, Descomps specialized in goldwork at the renowned firm of Falguières and worked closely with Paris jeweler Léon Gariod to fashion pieces that were emblematic of the period. Together they created brooches, pendants and other combinations featuring finely chiseled plique-à-jour enamelwork, emeralds, pearls, and other decorative and three-dimensional motifs. Two of the brooches from their collection are currently displayed in the Hessische Landesmuseum, Darmstadt and the British Museum in London. The jewelry designed by Descomps for Gariod contains the company stamp of Leon Gariod –a monogramed “LG” separated by a horn-like symbol in a vertical lozenge. This brooch represents a collaborative moment in the life of these two jewelers, a relationship that has been valued and recorded as an artistic intersection point.