Magnificent Platinum, Natural Pearl and Diamond Corsage Ornament, Circa 1910

Of Oriental inspiration, centered by a button-shaped natural pearl measuring 10.79 by 10.63 mm, surmounted by a cushion-cut diamond weighing 8.67 carats and flanked by two pear-shaped diamond drops weighing 9.59 carats and 8.78 carats, completed by a natural pearl drop measuring 11.88 by 11.69 mm, accented throughout by numerous old European, old mine and rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 19.50 carats, length approximately 4 inches.

Christie's London, June 20, 1990, Magnificent Jewellery, lot 228.

In very good condition. The mounting with gentle surface wear, minor warping to the undergalleries and small spots of solder at some of the joints, but none of these detract from the exceptional beauty and craftsmanship of the brooch. The balance of the diamonds are predominantly F-G color, VS clarity with an occasional SI example. The larger diamonds owe their SI clarity grades almost exclusively to chipping and natural characteristics, commensurate with wear and age. The pearls are silvery-white with soft to moderate rose and green overtones and well-matched for color. Both present good luster and light to moderate scratching. Minute pitting to the pearl drop and minor pitting to the button-shaped pearl. Accompanied by three Gübelin reports: No. 12050092 stating the 9.59 carat diamond is Faint Pink color, SI2 clarity. Together with a note stating the diamond is classified type lla, and an appendix stating it evokes references to the term "Golconda." No. 12050091 stating the 8.78 carat diamond is E color, SI2 clarity.Together with a note stating the diamond is classified type lla. No. 12050090 stating the 8.67 carat diamond is D color, SI2 clarity. Together with a note stating the diamond is classified type lla, and an appendix stating it evokes references to the term "Golconda." Also accompanied by four GIA reports: No. 5141655552 stating the 9.59 carat diamond is G color, SI1 clarity. Together with a letter that the diamond is classified as type IIa. No. 1142655551 stating the 8.78 carat diamond is F color, SI1 clarity. Together with a letter that the diamond is classified as type IIa. No. 5141655553 stating the 8.67 carat diamond is E color, SI1 clarity. Together with a letter that the diamond is classified as type IIa. No. 2145655557 stating that the pearls are natural, saltwater. A brooch of similar design is illustrated in the 1989 edition of Understanding Jewellery by David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, page 283.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Accompanied by four GIA reports:
No. 5141655552 stating the 9.59 carat diamond is G color, SI1 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating the diamond has been determined to be type lla.
No. 1142655551 stating the 8.78 carat diamond is F color, SI1 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating the diamond has been determined to be type lla.
No. 5141655553 stating the 8.67 carat diamond is E color, SI1 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating the diamond has been determined to be type lla.
No. 2145655557 stating the pearls are natural, saltwater.

Accompanied by three Gübelin reports:
No. 12050092 stating the 9.59 carat diamond is Faint Pink color, SI2 clarity. Together with a note stating the diamond is classified type lla, and an appendix stating it evokes references to the term "Golconda."
No. 12050091 stating the 8.78 carat diamond is E color, SI2 clarity.Together with a note stating the diamond is classified type lla.
No. 12050090 stating the 8.67 carat diamond is D color, SI2 clarity. Together with a note stating the diamond is classified type lla, and an appendix stating it evokes references to the term "Golconda."

Set with large and important diamonds and natural pearls, the present corsage ornament, crafted to perfection, is the epitome of early twentieth century opulence. The sheer elegance of its design blends elements of the Belle Epoque style with the new and fresh Art Deco aesthetic that was just beginning to exert its influence. Only an artist keenly aware of emerging fashions in both jewelry and couture could have blended these seemingly disparate elements in such an appealing way. Although the original owner is not known, it was certainly made for a lady of great wealth and prominence. 

 Women’s fashion changed dramatically in 1910. Greatly influenced by Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes, Paul Poiret, the leading Parisian couturier, banished the bodice in favor new silhouettes that included harem dresses and trousers. So great was his influence that jewelry styles were forced to follow suit. The large garland-style corsage ornaments of the previous decade were now impossible to wear and in their place were more compact and formal designs that harmonized with the current fashion. The present corsage ornament, created around 1910, is very much of its time. In addition to the basically vertical orientation that anticipates the lines of Art Deco fashion, its design is a departure from the more traditional European themes of bows and wreaths in favor of the exotic lotus flower so beloved in the mysterious east. 

A brooch of similar design is illustrated in the 1989 edition of Understanding Jewellery by David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, page 283; additionally, please view Twentieth Century British Jewellery 1900-1980 by Peter Hinks, page 49.