Gold and Hardstone Cameo Ring, Giovanni Antonio Santarelli, Late 18th Century to Early 19th Century

The hardstone cameo featuring the bust of Herakles or Omphale (in his guise) facing left, wearing the lion skin headdress, paws crossed at the neckline, the hardstone cameo signed Santarelli, size approximately 6½.

Beautifully detailed three-dimensional cameo, taking advantage of interesting color variations within the hardstone. Slight scratching and nicking to the mounting, but in good condition overall. Signed Santarelli at base of cameo.
In response to your inquiry, we are pleased to provide you with a general report of the condition of the property described above. Since we are not professional conservators or restorers, we urge you to consult with a restorer or conservator of your choice who will be better able to provide a detailed, professional report. Prospective buyers should inspect each lot to satisfy themselves as to condition and must understand that any statement made by Sotheby's is merely a subjective qualified opinion. Illustrations in the catalogue may not be actual size. Prospective purchasers are reminded that, unless the catalogue description specifically states that a stone is natural, we have assumed that some form of treatment may have been used and that such treatment may not be permanent. Our presale estimates reflect this assumption.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING CONDITION OF A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD "AS IS" IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE CONDITIONS OF SALE PRINTED IN THE CATALOGUE.

Giovanni Antonio Santarelli (1769-1826), a highly skilled Italian gem engraver and medallist, worked as engraver to Mints of Milan and Parma, also becoming a professor at the Academy in Florence where he lived most of the latter part of his life.  Santarelli is reported to have worked with the Pichlers, another well-known family of Italian gem engravers.  See Biographical Dictionary of Medallists, Vol. 5, L. Forrer, pp. 334-335, where it is also mentioned that he is said to have collaborated in the production of the Poniatowski gems.  Two examples of his work are described in the British Museum Catalogue of Engraved Gems of the Post-Classical Periods, nos. 118 and 398.

The subject in the example offered here presents a feminized portrait of Herakles, who according to Greek mythology became the slave of Omphale (Queen of the kingdom of Lydia) and was made to dress in women's clothes, do women's work, and hold the basket for the wool spun by Omphale and her maidens.  Conversely, the portrait could also represent Omphale as she is often portrayed in the guise of Herakles because legend has it that she donned Herakles' attributes of the lion skin headdress and brandished the club with which he slayed the Nemean Lion.