THE DIAMOND DRESS SUITE, CARTIER, LONDON, 1935

Comprising: a pair of cufflinks, three dress buttons and a stud, each circular link pavé-set with brilliant-, single- and carré-cut diamonds; one cufflink with the initial E and the other with the initial W to the centre, one bar fitting inscribed and dated: David 23/6/35, with the other inscribed and dated: Wallis 19/6/35, both signed Cartier, London; three buttons, all with the initial E, two fittings inscribed respectively: Hold Tight and: E 7/5/35; and the stud with the initial E, each link measuring approximately 13mm in diameter.

Cf: Sotheby's, The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Geneva, Thursday 2nd April 1987, Lot 15.

Cf: ed.Michael Bloch, Wallis and Edward, Letters 1931-1937, The Intimate Correspondence of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, London, 1986.

Cf: Suzy Menkes, The Windsor Style, London, 1987, page 182 where this dress suite is mentioned.

Cufflinks signed Cartier London, respectively numbered 1916135 and 2316135. Three buttons with white metal bar links, dress stud with a yellow metal sprung link possibly later. Diamonds very bright and lively; weighing approximately 6.00 - 6.50 carats. Scratches to mounts consistent with age and wear. Accompanied by fitted case made by Cartier after 1987 sale at Sotheby's. In good condition.
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These cufflinks and buttons were given by Wallis Simpson to Edward Prince of Wales around the period of the Royal Silver Jubilee celebrations in May 1935, to wear both on that occasion and for his birthday on 23rd June. 

'Hold Tight' and similar phrases were often employed by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor in their correspondence prior to their marriage.  See, for instance, his 'Hold me tight please' and 'a boy loves a girl more and more and is holding her so tight these trying days of waiting' in letters of 14th and 24th October, 1936, and her 'I'm holding you tighter than ever' in one of 6th December, 1936.

The first inscription on the bar with the date 7th May 1935, most probably refers to the reception the Prince hosted for 1200 people at Buckingham Palace; Mrs Simpson writes to her aunt about this event, 'His reception was the next night and afterwards he had a supper party of most distinguished people at York House.  I borrowed a tiara etc,' [page 152, Letters, Michael Bloch].  Besides the reception hosted by the Prince we know of no other private reason why this date was so memorable for them both.  She continues in her letter to talk about the Court Ball held at Buckingham Palace on 14th, this is believed to be the first time Mrs Simpson danced with the Prince in front of his parents the King and Queen, she notes in her memoirs, 'As David and I danced past, I thought I felt the King's eyes rest searchingly on me.  Something in his look made me feel that all this graciousness and pageantry were but the glittering tip of an iceberg... filled with an icy menace for such as me'. [page 150, Letters, Michael Bloch.]

The cufflinks inscribed Wallis 19.6.35 would have been given in celebration of Mrs Simpson's 39th birthday on that date.  There is a letter which survives from the Prince to Mrs Simpson on the same date in which he wishes her a happy birthday, 'Wallis... Oh! So many happy returns my sweetheart and God bless WE for ever. More and more and more we all of use say.  HE is terribly excited about new hair pin and HE hopes SHE is too (I'm hiding my face). Please call hello from window later to your David'. [page 155 Letters, Michael Bloch.]

23rd June 1935 was the Prince's 41st birthday, this date was also inscribed onto the sapphire cross Wallis - David 23-6-35, Lot 17 in this auction.